The Jangla technique is characterized by heavy and intricate weaving, with vegetation motifs. It is amongst the oldest techniques practiced in Varanasi. In this technique, threads are attached to the top of the loom, with their corresponding ends attached to the warp (bana). The body of the saree will typically have lots of creepers called ‘bel’, with flowers and birds, attached to them. It is representative of a wild jungle scene. A traditional, expensive jangla saree’s pattern is woven with pure gold and silver threads or ‘zari’. A slightly less expensive will have selected parts in pure gold and silver zari.
Patterns woven with a silk thread on a fabric that is entirely gold or silver, are called minakari patterns.
Buti is a flower but has come to mean a design with scattered flowers, leaves, birds, paisley motifs, circles or chevrons developed from Mughal times. Most butis have their own names, which are listed for common use in combination with straight or diagonal stripes, in clusters or scattered singly across the entire fabric. Some of the formal names are mehrab, ashrafi, angoor, resha, kairi, gulan, kamal, with the suffix of buti or bel attached depending on whether it was a single motif or trellis.